The Site

Pictograph Cave State Park is located southeast of Billings, Montana along the continuation of a sandstone cliff line that forms an impressive natural boundary and characterizes the valley. Two of the three caves that define the site complex contain evidence of habitation dating back over 4500 years ago. The pictographs that give the park its name date from over 2200 years ago (Billings Gazette 1995).  Located just 6 miles south of Billings, the Pictograph, Middle and Ghost cave complex was home to generations of prehistoric hunters. Over 30,000 artifacts have been identified from the park. A short paved trail allows you to view the rock paintings, known as pictographs, that are still visible in Pictograph Cave, the largest of the three. Interpretive signs tell the story of Montana’s first professional archaeological studies and excavations. This site is listed as a National Historic Landmark.

The location is considered to be one of the most significant archaeological sites in Montana, standing with the Ulm Pishkun, Valley of the Chiefs, Mill Iron and the Anzick Site as providers of insight into the prehistoric culture of the region. A detailed archaeological survey and excavation took place between 1938 and 1941, at which time the project was abandoned due to the start of WWII. Notable finds at the site include "barbed harpoon points of the Eskimo culture, made of caribou horn" (Malloy 1933). The caves also contained the graves of nine individuals and over 30,000 artifacts.

The project was the first professionally supervised archaeological project to be undertaken in Montana and was one of the first in the western United States to be explored using traditional archaeological methodologies. The Works Progress Administration (WPA) sponsored the dig under the guidance of local archaeologists Oscar T. Lewis and W. T. Malloy. The WPA was active in Montana during this period as a work relief program providing jobs to unemployed individuals during the nation's economic downturn and at times the project employed 60 men.

Montana State University, Montana School of Mines and Eastern Montana Normal College participated in academic sponsorship of the project. Eastern Montana College continued to provide park guides from the mid-1940's to the mid-1970's

Over the years the site has been referred to as Hieroglyphic Caves, Inscription Caves and Indian Caves before arriving at its current official name, Pictograph Caves State Monument.

Development and Perception of the Site

Conversion of the site into a State Park was not accomplished easily. The 22-acre property was originally purchased by the State of Montana in 1937 and placed under the jurisdiction of the Montana Highway Commission.

During the excavation period covering 1938 to 1941, over 10,000 visitors were recorded at the site. During that time, public interest was so intense that a small museum and visitor center was constructed. The building was also used to process artifacts that were continually flowing from the caves.  L. B. McMullen, then President of Eastern Montana Normal School, was instrumental in developing the original museum located at the site.

            When the excavation was halted due to the onset of World War II, interest in the site waned. Visitation at the site was not controlled, the artifacts were not tracked well (most can still not be accounted for today), and the museum at the site was broken into numerous times and eventually burned by vandals.

In 1963 Mayor Willard Fraser signed an agreement stating that the City of Billings would take over administration of the park from the Montana State Department of Highways. This move was met with criticism from Aldermen who expressed concerns over the cities ability to monitor the park, assume liabilities, and provide services. The distance of the park from the city was also of major concern. "We'd just be inviting kids to raise all kinds of hell" was the position of Alderman Joe Leone. Regardless of their opposition, Mayor Fraser saw the potential to attract tourists to the site (Billings Gazette 1963).

            The contentious discussion continued into 1964 when an "overflow crowd" appeared at a City Council meeting to express their displeasure over a 7-2 vote terminating development of the park. Supporters of the park included representatives of the Dude Rancher Association, Billings Arts Association, Chamber of Commerce, Billings Archaeological Society, Billings Rod and Gun Club. Those that spoke before the Council expressed the need to continue to develop the park as a tourist attraction "And good God, we know we need an attraction" spoke Walter Woodcock. In spite of continued opposition from the City Council, supporters of the park succeeded in transferring stewardship of the park to the City of Billings. It was during this time that the Site was recognized as a National Historic Landmark by the National Park Service. During the 1960's, some improvements were made to trails in the park, signage and the access road.

            City insurance coverage and the willingness of the City to continue involvement in the park was put to the test in 1965 when a tourist from Illinois was killed while climbing on the rimrocks in the park.

            During the 1950's and 1960's monitoring of the site by the City of Billings was lenient. It was during this period that "beer parties" at the site were common, bonfires were held directly in the cave and garbage consumed the area (Billings Gazette 1972). It was also during this period that a great deal of modern graffiti appeared on the cave, in some cases directly over the prehistoric artwork.

            In 1969 management of the park was taken over by the Montana Fish and Game Department (now Montana Fish, Wildlife and Parks - FWP) and resurrection of the site began. Locked gates protect access, a caretaker resides at the park during the summer months and improvements have made the park suitable for general visitation.

 Current Efforts

During the winter of 2001 the Billings Office of the FWP formed a Management Planning Team. This team has been soliciting public comments regarding the future development of the park and potential restoration of the artwork.

Management of the rock art is somewhat unique to FWP, although they do manage two other sites that contain native artwork, Ulm Pishkun and the Missouri Headwaters.

            The current process focuses well beyond the artwork. Topics include compilation of existing documentation, digital conversion of existing documentation, increasing local awareness of the park, increasing tourism potential, increasing local and regional support for park development, surveying for original excavations, locating existing artifacts, and enhancing the accessibility of material available to researchers. FWP anticipates that a fully-developed website will lead to increased visitation.

            The possibility also exists for further archaeological exploration of the site, since the excavation was never completed to the maximum strata. This could serve to resurrect archaeological interest, increase tourist visitation at the site and increase community support for the park.